[ Technical Textiles - Testing Karl Mayer’s 3D shapewear .]

19 December 2011, Obertshausen.

By developing these functional 3D briefs, Karl Mayer says it is getting the bodies of fashion-conscious women into shape, as well as modernising the production of stylish shapewear.

The discreetly patterned briefs are produced so that they are almost ready-to-wear on a DJ machine - type DJ 6/2 EL. According to Karl Mayer, the only thing that remains to be done is to cut out the semi-finished article, fold it vertically, close the inner leg seam and finally turn the briefs to the right side - and this comfortable shapewear, which can be produced very efficiently, is ready to wear.

Additional elastane is incorporated to give the fabric the required compression and this is introduced by the Positive Pattern Beam Drive (PPD). This is done mainly at specific locations, i.e. at the waistband to create a flat border and at the hips to produce a smooth outline. Compression is also applied to flatten the stomach.

Independent laboratory tests

Tests have recently been carried out at independent test laboratory, Hohenstein Laboratories GmbH & Co. KG, to assess whether Karl Mayer's 3D briefs meet the multiple requirements of shapewear.

According to Karl Mayer, the Hohenstein Laboratories studied the compression behaviour of shapewear briefs in accordance with the RAL-GZ 387/1 (1/2008) specification, which covers the specifications relating to the quality assurance of medical compression hosiery.

The tests concentrated on the waistband, the stomach and the hips. The samples were first of all washed and dried in accordance with the specification. Compression tests were then carried out using the System Hohenstein Compression Measurement system.

The results of the tests, which were carried out under specific climatic conditions, related to the following parameters: practical elongation (%), force (N/cm), compression (kPa) and residual pressure (%). The resulting pressure profile confirmed the compression values for the functional briefs in all three test zones.

These achieved the desired body-shaping effect but are below the threshold that is specified for medical compression textiles. Loss of comfort is therefore precluded. A continuous increase in compression occurs from the lower edge of the briefs to the top edge - reflecting the efforts of Karl Mayer's product developers in developing shapewear that matches the body's anatomy.

LYCRA beauty fabric Standard.

The 3D briefs with "extra power" were also sent to Invista's laboratory for further tests to study their shaping effects. Invista is one of the world's largest integrated manufacturers of fibres and polymers and at its LYCRA fiber Moves leg wear event at ITMA, one of the exhibits it was showcasing was the extension of its LYCRA beauty fabric platform to the fine pantyhose and seamless clothing sector.

The concept has already become well established in the lingerie and swimwear market, and involves testing compression force in conjunction with comfort. By carrying out extensive tests using the company's own standards, Invista developed a classification system which was designed to give consumers more information and the confidence to make the right purchasing decision, and also to support manufacturers in their marketing operations.

Approximately 250 commercially available shapewear models were analysed in order to draw up the standards for LYCRA beauty fine pantyhose and seamless clothing. Comprehensive clothing construction tests were used to correlate the characteristics of the fabric with the shaping performance of the garment in relation to the important aspects of ‘shaping' and ‘dynamic comfort'.

Karl Mayer says its 3D briefs were successfully tested in accordance with the standards of the LYCRA beauty concept and now carry a label that certifies their shaping effect - " a ‘passport of quality' that enables them to cross over the border from the shelf to the shopping bag."

Source
Knitting Industry E-Newsletter.